Friday, 22 November 2013

The carnival by the Bosphorus and more!

Day 6: Started the day late after a tiring day the day before,  with lunch at a cool burger place on Bagdat Caddesi called Burger House. The most succulent burgers, excellent cheese sticks and the yummiest crispiest fries. After lunch, we have coffee and laze around at Starbucks, after which we drive to Ortakoy, a fun open air space by the Bosphorus on the European side. It has a carnival like atmosphere, dotted with small kiosks and stalls selling souveniers and jewellery and crafts etc., some lovely cafes, sheesha places, bars and live music. It has a lovely view of the Bosphorus and the Bosphorus bridge. It was late in the evening when we went, the sun starting to set so the weather was much cooler, quite nippy later at night. We sat at a cosy little sheesha place covered in the blankets that they provided (very clean - freshly laundered) called Destan and had sheesha and sipped some lovely hot tea. Also played some Balloon shooting games with balloons tied up some distance in the sea and we had to stand by the edge on the shore and shoot. So a lovely place, ridiculously quaint - A must see when in Istanbul!

Day 7: The Rumaili hisari fortress that was built by the order of Sultan Mehmat the Conquerer is on the European side on a hill by the Bosphorus. A visit to the Rumaili hisari museum is highly recommended. It is a huge, beautifully built fortress. You can visit the museum and walk the grounds around it, you can climb up to one of the gardens or take a book and just relax at the great open air theatre. From Kabatas you can take the bus to Rumeli hisari Museum.

Note: Take your camera but do not take any food because it is not allowed inside.

You can eat at the numerous restaurants next to the Rumaili Hisari, overlooking the Bosphorus. We ate at a sweet restaurant terrace two restaurants down from the museum.

We then drove to Nisantasi, a very posh district on the European side, one of the more popular shopping and residential areas in Istanbul. Walking along the narrow roads of Nisantasi, outlined by shops and buildings reminiscent of a very affluent Ottoman era, it is just breathtaking the beauty of this neighbourhood; so much character in these architectural wonders. The shopping on Nisantasi is very high end, Gucci, Armani, Cavalli and the likes, there's a Zara too. If you're hungry or tired from all the walking and the shopping, go take a break at the Armani Cafe. We walked to the back lanes and found the sweetest little roadside cafes serving all kinds of food and sheesha (ofcourse - I'm sure by now you realize how fond I am of sheesha). For similar small roadside cafes, serving good food and those that stay open till later at night than most, head to the lanes of Kadicoy, further down from the Iskelesi. Very happening place and very nice food. Both these places are mostly frequented by locals so its an excellent place to go to mingle with the Turkish.

Note: For more affordable shopping head to Istaklal on the European side or Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side.

Words to know:
Pardo'n - Excuse me.
Tushukkular - Thank you.


Nisantasi


Ortakoy

Other must see places:

Miniaturk
Sulaymaniyah Mosque

The whirling dervishes are a must see - You go into a trance when the dervishes do their thing.. Arrange to see that.. Some dinner cruises have the whirling dervishes but check with your concierge for the best option.



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Friday, 15 November 2013

Shopping Spree on a magic flying carpet :)

Day 5: So today we decide to take it easy with the sightseeing and go shopping instead. I am most excited about seeing the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. You can, depending on where you're staying, take the tram or walk to the Grand Bazaar. For me, even more that the shopping, whats exciting is the way the Grand Bazaar is made. It's not your usual mall like bazaar, it seems to be from another era entirely. From the times of the Ottoman Empire, the almost 550 years old Grand Bazaar is one of the largest covered marketplaces in the world, one of the oldest too. As soon as you enter, you're welcomed by a kaleidoscope of colours and for a second it's overwhelming and then you just get lost in all that activity and colour. Moving from lane to lane, stall to stall, you get to see and purchase all the real treasures of Turkey. The beautiful colourful; hand painted and hand blown lamps that Turkey is so popular for are found in all shapes, sizes, designs and prices. Leather goods are another of Turkey's specialities, shoes and handbags and are a must buy; Turkish bags are gorgeous and the leather is so light and supple, you can't resist buying atleast one. The same goes for leather shoes; so comfortable. Ladies, another must buy when you're in Turkey and at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is the gorgeous, most extraordinary jewellery; rings, bracelets, necklaces etc. And the multitude of evil eye ornaments and jewellery. Turkish jewellery is popular all over the world.  I remind you here to bargain to your heart's content! It is an essential if you want the best prices! Do not get aggressive but bargain.




The lovely handpainted crockery and plates and tiles of Turkey are also a must buy. Lovely to decorate your home with, or serve food to your guests in. The gorgeous apple tea glasses are available in a multitude of colours and designs, and they're lovely to take home as a present or for yourself. 

Note: Remember to pick up a few packets of the delicious Apple Tea so popular in Turkey (that is yum when you have it hot and oh so refreshing when you have it cold)!




After all the shopping you can rest a while at one of the many small cafes everywhere inside the Grand Bazaar - have some delicious shawarma or some light and yummy lamajoon (pizza like turkish dish) and such. Another interesting thing you'll find everywhere in the Grand Bazaar are the large marble water fountains that are as old as the bazaar itself and are found easily on almost every lane so that in case you get thirsty exploring the 61 lanes or so that make up the bazaar, and with all the haggling, you can stop for some cold water. ATMs can also be found in a few places inside the bazaar, in case you shop a little more than intended, which is known to happen quite often while shopping at the fascinating Grand Bazaar. Ask the shopkeepers and they'll direct you.

Head on to the Spice Bazaar once you're done with Grand Bazaar, they're in the same area - Faith, walking distance from each other, so you can go from one to the other. You might have to come back for the Spice Bazaar the next day if you're not short on time because the Grand Bazaar can be tiring. The Spice Bazaar is a must see however, even if you don't buy much. It is a very interesting experience. The Spice Bazaar is the second largest covered market in Istanbul, after the Grand Bazaar and was made in the 1660s and was called the Egyptian Market as it used to sell goods brought from Cairo. Now the Spice Bazaar, it sells heaps and heaps of the most exotic spices, dry fruits, condiments and a must buy is the very popular Turkish jelly like sweet called the Turkish delight that is great to take home as a present or for yourself.



Exhausted, we went back to my brothers place, ate at home and then late at night, walked to the beach and sat at a little cafe and had nargile/sheesha and some hot apple tea in the cool night.



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Sunday, 10 November 2013

The magic of Istanbul continues!

Day 4: The weather is much cooler today, slightly chilly and cloudy. It seems great for sightseeing because walking in the Istanbul sun becomes a little much after a while. And today we have a lot of sightseeing on the agenda. But first some yummy yogurt from Pinkberry. Sated we continue on our journey :) Keep your cameras on the ready because you'll be taking a lot of pictures these next few hours. We hop on to the ferry and get to the European side and tram it to sultanahmet, grab a coffee from Starbucks and head on to the Blue Mosque, our first stop. Built in the early 16th century, the Blue Mosque also called the Sultanahmet Mosque is beautiful. Keep a watch out for the blue tiles inside that are said to have given the mosque its name. What really caught my eye were the lovely chandeliers inside the mosque, that gave the mosque this surreal beauty, bathing it in this subtle warm light. 



We then head to the Hagia Sophia; the museum that was initially a church and then a mosque during the Ottoman era and much later and currently a museum in secular Turkey. It now is this unbelievable piece of architecture that is reminiscent of two wonderfully rich eras - the byzantine and the Ottoman. You walk in and you see the same lovely chandeliers and the Islamic features from the time it was a mosque. You will want to take your time exploring the Hagia Sophia, walk up to the first floor and see below the the hustle bustle of tourists, you're above the chandeliers now (the chandeliers that I'm totally besotted with) so looking down through them is interesting. You can see the old flooring and notice the pattern on it, appreciate the painted walls, the huge calligraphic symbols up are beautiful. And then coming down you take the almost prehistoric cave like ramp that leads you back to the ground floor. There's a little cafe right outside where you can get a quick bite. Don't forget to pick up some souvenirs from the little souvenir shop close to the museum exit gate. 

The Hagia Sophia is also the inspiration of Dan Brown's 2013 published 'Inferno.' Here the famous Robert Langdon attempts to reveal the mysteries of the transcendent Hagia Sophia by traveling to Istanbul with Sienna Brooks, the female lead in the book. The book paints a very different picture of gorgeous Istanbul, but an interesting read none the less.  





On to the Basilica Cistern, also known as the sunken palace by the locals. This is an underground cistern built in Byzantine era that provided water filtration services to the Great Palace of Constantinople and then the Topkapi Palace eons ago. There used to be a huge Basilica here that burnt down during the 4th century and so this cistern is cathedral size, the largest cistern in Istanbul. It is a fascinating structure, water everywhere amidst which you see architecture that takes you back in time. You must see the two medusa head pillars that are extraordinary.  It is dark and slightly murky under there, but that actually adds to the ambiance and enhances your experience. As you enter there's a small booth to your left that allows you to play dress up with outfits from the Ottoman times and take pictures. Fun!



Getting out, we're tired but yearning for more so we cab it to the Dolmabahce Palace, only to find out that it closes at 4 pm, and it's past 5, so Dolmabahce tomorrow. Note: Timings for the Dolmabahce Palace are 9:00 am to 4:00 pm, 7 days of the week.

More coming up soon!




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Saturday, 2 November 2013

Living it up in Istanbul!

Istanbul has some of the finest clubs and restaurants if you're looking to eat fancy food and party it up while you're in the city. A few that I highly recommend are given below. Be prepared to run into some major celebs so dress to kill and as my dad says, 'Put on your dancing shoes.' :)

Reina restaurant and club: One of the most exciting places in Istanbul is also one of the priciest. However, for those eating at the restaurant, the club entrance fee is waived. You can drive to Reina or go by boat to beat the traffic. It is one of the favourite haunts of some of my favourite celebs and has a ridiculously lovely view of the Bosphorus. :)  It also has food to die for. A restaurant that turns into a club at night, it is one of the most hip places in Istanbul. Don't forget to make reservations in advance.

Address: Muallim Naci Avenue 44, Ortakoy, 0090 212 259 5919

Ulus 29: Another lovely restaurant and club, the decor of which is so traditionally Turkish, it makes you feel like you've been transported to the Ottoman era. Along with this very colourful, vibrant decor Ulus 29 offers gorgeous views of the Bosphorus. In cooler weather, you must sit out on the open terrace. The food is excellent although quite expensive. Make reservations and leave your hotel early keeping in mind the Istanbul traffic.

Address: Ahmet Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Ulus Parki ici, Ulus, 0090 212 358 2929

360 Suada Club: Located on an island in the middle of the Bosphorus, you get to Suada by boat (which is free of cost). It offers a 360 view of the entire city, both Asian and European istanbul and an interesting menu; Fusion, Turkish with a very international twist. It's a lovely, very romantic restaurant. It was perfect to go to alone with my husband. The service although was not the best sadly. There are other restaurants on Suada island, but we couldn't find time to visit the others, but the view of the city around us gleaming in all its finery, lit up so beautifully, made up for the bad service. A true romantic, I fell in love. Please remember to make reservations. 

Address: Kurucesme Mah, Suada Muallim Naci Cad, 0090 212 263 6623



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